Image I don’t think it’s supposed to be fused to the brim. From what it looks like in OrcaSlicer. So I can make it a little farther, another 0.02. Will later. That might get gaps in some spots though. Cause it’s the right distance probably in one spot, from the brim. Or that’s a gap, but it might supposed to have a gap there. The brim isn’t part of the print. ...

The bed is magnetic, but I put a magnetic base on it, thinking it would be stronger, not the one from TH3D. I use AutoBim to level it, currently with a 0.02 accuracy, could run again, and make it better, especially if I change to 0.01 accuracy. Easy solution to make the bed more level, and make AutoBim work way better. I also reattached the magnetic base, to align it better. ...

Less blobs with that turned off apparently. At least when printing the Z offset calibration. Some gaps Might only need to be 0.02 closer though, I’ll check with a feeler gauge in a little while. Hard to remove it hot, then have to heat up the bed again. The current Z offset is hard to get 0.1mm feeler gauge under it, so thought it would work. Too long to print to just change by 0.02 until it works. Lots of waiting. So see how close until you can’t get the feeler gauge under it. Then make it a little farther. ...

It came, and the fans spin. Don’t know if it reduces smell yet. Still getting Z offset. I’ll know in a little while. All I had to do was install fans. I didn’t even get electrocuted or any sparks, and I didn’t read instructions. Just plugged the wires into the AC adapter. Need to run AutoBim again. The fans were spinning before I put it in enclosure, I can hear a fan or fans. I can’t count the amount of fans from noise. ...

The magnet is as weak as the printers, at least with the build plate I use. It’s a build plate from HoldenEnterprises. It’s actually worse then the ones that came with a cheap build plate on Amazon. I kept em, and should have just used one. I can always take it off, maybe. Or put one on top of it. Lose even more height. Damn, need to run AutoBim again. Not sure how well I aligned the magnet base. ...

Will my G10 build plate fit on it? Well, probably order another one, so both printers can print at the same time. Best Buy has $40 off. Too paranoid to switch brands, I know how to fix the Ender 3 V2 Neo. Well, except for the bed. The heated bed that is. Do you replace the entire bed? Tempting to buy it, but currently nowhere to put it. The enclosure I’d want is $200, to buy it and everything you need. You can print the parts yourself and buy everything yourself, but I’m incredibly lazy. Can’t recall if you need heat inserts or not, haven’t done that yet. ...

How well the Z calibration printed, after messing with Z rods. Not perfect, but pretty good for a not completely level bed, and UBL and fading. Now I get to go to bed before the AM, no more printing till tomorrow. There is one gap in a corner, not sure it’s worth fixing though. Might get blobs. Probably only needs to change to -2.18 from -2.16 to fix it though. Found some more gaps. There’s also indents. Maybe print it one more time @ -2.18. Still should be able to go to bed before the AM. ...

That’s my problem with blobs and leveling. I just messed with both Z rods, but it still might not be right. The left one seems to be sticking up more. Running auto leveling to see what bed looks like, with an offset of 0 for now. Hmm, might be better somehow. The Z offset might be the same. Didn’t change leveling, just messed with Z rods. The Z rods are moving smooth. Not sure the grub screws on top should be super tight, at least one of them. It stops and squeaks if it’s too tight. ...

Got another air purifier today. Put it closer to the AC. Where the dust is probably coming in. The other one is already close to the printer. Maybe both can happily live on one less then max fan speed. Might be possible to go lower, but I’m too lazy to wait and see if that works. Not that loud on one under max anyways. Homekit couldn’t connect to the accessory, was probably trying to use IPv6. WireGuard isn’t setup for IPv6. ...

One side was going up a little too much, the Z rod. Tightened the grub screws on it, now it doesn’t seem to do that. Probably making the X uneven. Z offset might have changed again as well, back down to -2.04, what it was originally. Not sure you can stop it from popping up a little. I probably need to replace the block on the left side. The right side is the side that was going up too much, when moving the Z up, sometimes, then goes back down, probably messing the leveling up. ...