To prevent damage to printer, I bought a Ferrule Kit, the ASIN is B07WRQN45C. And to help prevent fires. Apparently the tinned wires can get loose, or a bad connection, and cause issues. Might wait until next week to do it, got to remove the beast from enclosure. Didn’t want to order from TH3D, no free shipping, and their magnetic base is as weak as my printer. They claim it’s stronger then most printers, well not mine. Probably won’t print much until next week anyways. There’s a photo that shows you how to do it. Doesn’t look too hard. The hardest part is stripping the wire the right length. ...

Don’t use an offset of -02.400, if you want less then -0.2.080. Them zeros are messing me up. Marlin has more zeros then Unified Firmware 2. No wonder that was too close, never printed that close. I don’t think anyways. The printer failed to save the offset last night again, so it wasn’t set to -02.040. Not sure what Marlin’s deal is, but it refuses to save the value. I found a bug report, apparently UBL doesn’t move Z to compensate for everybody. ...

They have an enclosure for $100 for medium, or large for $125. But you might need to print something to make it less wobbly. They have better air filter things then what I bought too. Won’t work in my tent enclosure, you need to drill holes, mine is fabric, wouldn’t hold it up. So what I bought has advantages, you don’t need a better enclosure. But they have a heater too. That’s how I found the site. Somebody claims you need 65C ambient temperature to print ASA, apparently for junk ASA.

It’s because the values aren’t exactly the same in the config file for Marlin. I could change it, but I don’t think I care. I think the X value is less, for the max X or something. Var is 0.17 now. Not as good as last time. Probably need to set Z offset to 0, and run AutoBim again. Offset was too close. Var is 0.2 now. So it’s worse. Maybe the offset still isn’t perfect. Oops, build plate moved while getting stuff off. ...

Usually when going down from as high as it can go. I had to lower the max Z value. Cause it was trying to go too high. Probably because I have a magnetic base. The left one sticks out a little from the thing too. Don’t think it can go any farther down. Couldn’t get the right one the same. Might mess up the printing. Oh and put the belt on right, with a good amount of tightness, or it’ll crap out. I was messing with Z rods, should have been messing with the belt. ...

You need that for Pressure Advance calibration in OrcaSlicer, no wonder it doesn’t work. No idea what setting you use for non direct drive though. Does it only work with Direct Drive? If so, useless for me. Too much work to enable that. You have to do a calibration, and says not to use Pressure Advance. Not really needed anyways. Not that many blobs, had about one blob last time. On the first layer. ...

Waiting for the print to finish, ran AutoBim again. Didn’t change offset again. But it seemed to fix the gaps it had last time at this offset. Making it closer got blobs. So looked into other ways to get rid of gaps, AutoBim was my first thought that might fix it. Current Bed Mesh: Probably the best it’s ever been. I have an Ender 3 V2 Neo, with a CRtouch. Feeler gauge might not be the best way to get offset, I used the tune menu to get the current value. ...

Depending on how your firmware is configured, it might not be turning bed leveling on. Just use M420 S1 in the Gcode. I put it before the tilting. I’ll test that soon. So maybe Unified Firmware 2 is fine, if you use leveling, assuming it was off. Using Marlin now, it’s probably better anyways. And the offset was wrong, must have forgot to save it last night. Or early this morning. Not sure if it should be -2.10 or -2.00. Bed Visualizer was ran @ -2.10, but that might be too close. ...

Don’t keep making new bed meshes with Bed Visualizer @ different offsets. Doesn’t seem to work. Make a bed mesh @ offset 0 Get offset after it’s done Print the Z calibration and use the Tune menu Save the Tune Z offset Print again and hope it works I’ll know once I print the calibration again if that method works. Perhaps I should have looked up the correct method with auto leveling. ...

Sick of trying to get the perfect Z offset with Unified Firmware 2, the blobs could be caused from something else, but not worth my time to use Unified Firmware 2 anymore. Last Z calibration with Unified Firmware 2 Damn, now I need the firmware to flash screen… It’s messed up. Still not perfect, just move the select wheel, and you’ll see. It shows every one you go over as hoover, even if you aren’t on it anymore. ...