They work great for me, just finished a 9 hour print with one. Hopefully they last a long time, I have one extra one. My retraction is still 3mm, not sure that’s the best value. That’s what it was before too. With brass nozzles. Every time I print the calibration, I can’t tell what’s good. All looks the same, so kept it at 3mm.

Two things printed, the small bin, and the Modular Drawers Evo - Module 1 Fast Print. Not a fast print for me, printed with white ASA, slowly. 9 hours or so to print that. Some blobs, but good enough for me. You can buy it on Etsy, and print yourself, or pay for printing from somebody.

Better Z offset If you get gaps and blobs, then clean the nozzle, and reset printer or delete the mesh, and tram the bed again using AutoBim. I cleaned it before I removed it from enclosure to do some work. Forgot to do the bed wire though.

Put ferrules on the nozzle cables, I assume that’s for the heater. Forgot all about the bed, that’ll have to wait, as it took a long time to do. One wire is slightly shorter. Cause I don’t have a clue what I’m doing. Don’t use the little holes, use the 16awg or whatever slicer cutter thingy. The screen wire isn’t right, it’s shorter then before now. Not that I need the screen much. ...

Not convinced the filament is wet, 36% in dry box. Probably about the same as after I dried it, the sensor in it, isn’t very accurate. But that test Z calibration print, had blobs, and gaps. So making the Z farther away, isn’t working, still get blobs, and then get gaps. Well, going to fix the wires after nozzle cools down, already removed the filament, had to flash firmware and enable something, so I could send the unload code to it. The change filament I tried, but it doesn’t fully eject filament, then just loads it. I had to run the unload command more then once. But maybe the blobs are from a slightly clogged nozzle, I cleaned it out with my new tool.

How thick? And does that apply to a cold nozzle but heated bed? Guess next time I need to get a new offset, I should use the 0.2mm. Or heat the nozzle up and wait forever for it to stop leaking. Not sure if what I have it set to now is good or not. Won’t know till it’s done, too tired to watch it. Also, changing the offset while printing, messes the print up. And it might fix it for that print, but not permanently. Still needed it closer the next print. ...

If you plan on using fading that is. Or you will print too close, then too far, cause the Tune Z offset menu, takes a long time to know if what you changed it to is right. Going to check the offset with fading on, cause I’m sick of it being too close, and getting blobs. You could just turn it off too. It was still too close, according to feeler gauge, big difference if you turn fading on when checking. Probably will get more gaps now though. ...

According to the flow rate calibration. Almost all of them look horrible. Maybe Z hop off makes it look bad. Or maybe the Z offset is a little too close. I’ll turn Z hop on for the next one. Under extrusion @ -20, there’s gaps. The rest appear to have over extrusion or some other issue. Kind of pointless doing this, not a lot of this filament left. Won’t work with different filament most likely. Not sure I’ll buy it again either, the new stuff might be way better. ...

These cheap ones suck. Hard to get a good reading, maybe I was doing it wrong or something, or the print varies a lot, cause it said 0.3x, and should be about 0.20 or close. Oh and the battery will drain if you leave the battery in, I just slide the thing out before putting it away. The battery compartment, so it’s not touching the contacts. Maybe General Tools Digital Caliper is better, costs more, almost $50. Don’t need the over $100 ones. ...

Image The brim looks good, so why those blobs on the print? Wet filament? Too high temps? Some other setting?