If you plan on using fading that is. Or you will print too close, then too far, cause the Tune Z offset menu, takes a long time to know if what you changed it to is right. Going to check the offset with fading on, cause I’m sick of it being too close, and getting blobs.

You could just turn it off too.

It was still too close, according to feeler gauge, big difference if you turn fading on when checking. Probably will get more gaps now though.

Not close enough, but still better then being too close. Then the Tune menu is easier. I make it too far, when trying to get rid of blobs. Perhaps I make it too close when getting rid of gaps too. The flow ratio is the default value now, I doubt the number was right.

Running Bed Visualizer to see what the var is now. Later I’ll print. Might disable fading, depending on what bed mesh looks like.

Turned fading off, doubt it’ll work. With a feeler gauge and fading off, the Z offset might be -2.20, making a new bed mesh to see what the var is. Seems like that would be too close, with fading on it might be -1.96. But probably doesn’t actually work at that offset.

Var is 0.30 something.

Guess the tune menu is the only way to get it right. If that even works. Went from -02.200, to -01.890.

Maybe fading only works set to 100mm. That’s how big her clit is.

Maybe I should use the 0.2mm feeler gauge, might work better.

Oops, didn’t edit the start Gcode…

Still leaking after 15 minutes, waiting another 5. And then probably another 5.

Should I try -02.100 or -02.200, that is the the question, the second might have a better looking mesh. Will probably try -02.200 again, or a little farther. Maybe -02.1500 would work.

Still bumps, at least @ -02.150. Tune menu is useless, if you don’t do it right away.

Must have been way too close, no gaps with -02.050 either. At least not last time I checked.

A camera in the enclosure would be nice, wouldn’t have to get up or sit in front of it to see if offset is right yet. Not sure you can send the code while it’s printing to change it though. Might get fried though, with the temperature in there.

And -01.960 might be right. Fading might work at that offset, no idea, probably won’t enable it again.

Damn gaps. Not for the entire print though. Could be a different problem. But I changed it to -02.000. See if that’s good enough. Just noticed some blobs on the brim.

I wonder if over extrusion can cause gaps. If so, I should change to the poorly calibrated value. Poorly, as the offset was wrong, too close. Under extrusion can cause gaps. Doesn’t look like it can. Just like I thought.

Probably already tried -02.000, as it’s too close. Trying -01.970. That’s four turns on the thing on the screen.

Still too close, did the thing where it doesn’t print in one spot, until the second pass. Changed to -09.965. If it works, need to reprint it though, to see if that one spot is fixed.

Might have found the offset, -09.962, and flow rate of 90 on the printer. No idea how you permanently change that on printer. And printer halted, while looking at settings. No idea why. I’ll just change it in OrcaSlicer.

Decease the flow rate in the Tune menu by 5% until most blobs are gone, if you go too much, then change 5% to a smaller number, maybe 1%.

Hopefully the next print will be good, as I want to go to bed.

Apparently Z offset calibration means messing with flow rate too.

You can also just get the Z offset right everywhere, then do a flow calibration.

Brim wasn’t sticking on one side. But then was getting blobs, had to decrease flow more, and change Z offset back to what it was. Down to a flow rate of 0.775062, getting closer to what was calibrated.

Maybe I should wait at least ten minutes, not five minutes, before clicking print.

Really bad flow rate.

How long does it take to cancel a fucking print? Forgot to preheat it. Guess it has to get up to 95C bed first, dick. Might as well turn it off and go to bed. Ahh OctoPrint doesn’t know how to cancel prints.

Changing flow rate back to default. Too much work to get it without a calibration print.