How much will the cheaper ones be under the Trump regime, with the tariffs? Probably not getting a Nintendo Switch 2, as the price will probably be more. Won’t buy one this month most likely. Got to see how much food is. So maybe in that case, never. I may get murdered in cold blood before the end of the year anyways. Want to make a proper spool holder for my cereal boxes. Saw one that would almost work. I could scan it from a video of it, but that might not have the measurements right. Will a cheap 3D scanner measure it right? Cause I’m lazy, guess I’ll have to try and measure it. Still a 3D scanner might be less work. DOn’t need the lid scanned. ...

I don’t know where I got that, just have the STL file. I was able to edit it with Tinkercad, after looking up how to separate an object, their instructions didn’t exactly work, or I didn’t follow correctly. That’s probably the easiest method. Easy to select the part you want with a box. No idea if I did it right, and my phone will fit in the spot now. Or if my phone will charge with it in it now. It was fine with old case. ...

Is it any good? Cheaper then COEX, and made in the USA. I might have figured out settings for COEX, 90C bed, and I’m printing faster, so it doesn’t take as long. Printed a scoop and it’s pretty strong, only 40% infill, I scooped some clean litter up and no issues. Problem is, they say you might need to print @ 280C, not sure I can print at that temp. Maybe only if you are printing fast you need that temp. Need to find more stuff to buy for free shipping, or just pay shipping again, I have their Bento Box. ...

Such as a cat toy ball in a ball. One more try for today, then off to bed I go. Good way to test settings and Z offset. Apparently PETG likes to be farther from bed then other stuff. So far, the ball breaks too easily. I got it a little stronger by increasing the nozzle temperature to 245C, the max COEX recommends for it. This test is with the initial layer set to 0.3mm too, and the shell thickness to the default value. ...

No issues yet, or last time I was looking at it. Default temps for the profile they provide for Cura. 235C nozzle, and 75C bed. I use a G10 bed I think, and it’s sticking so far. That dry box makes a lot of noise. Just printing an alligator chip clip, supposed to be better with PETG. Didn’t dry the filament, it was vacuum sealed. Should probably unload it, and seal up the dry box, or put it the dryer, which might be better. After it’s done. ...

Same Z offset, but PLA. So the ASA might need drying, I wasted most of it, trying to get blob free. I printed the one layer @ this offset with ASA, and had lots of blobs. The infill doesn’t seem to have any blobs with PLA. Not done yet, but looking better so far. Also printing with Cura, cause I’m too lazy to add the settings for the PLA to OrcaSlicer, I can’t import the profile. ...

Had to make it closer, there were gaps. Not hearing any noise. But there is blobs. Just the fan noise. I should have printed with PLA, this sign doesn’t need ASA. Don’t really want to dry the ASA I’m using, as there isn’t much left. So the blobs might get better, once I switch to the new ASA, I will dry it first. Doesn’t seem like enough blobs to be the Z offset. This sign might be ugly. ...

Changed the tension on belts, and spring for the extruder. There was some blobs, mostly on the brim. But the infill was mostly blob free. Not sure why the brim has blobs. Guess the brim just sucks, don’t really care about the brim anyways. Nothing to print, so getting it mostly blob free was pointless. No need for a temperature tower.

Might be the infill that’s causing blobs, 100% infill on the Z calibration test. So print it with 10% instead. Maybe this Polymaker filament does suck. Went to -2.10. Still waiting for it to print enough to tell. No idea why on the brim there was blobs, but not on the infill, just gaps. Good print for testing Z offset though, better then the calibration one. Not seeing gaps or blobs yet, nice. ...

Apparently my offset changed, after a 9 hour print. If I have to get a new offset after every print, it won’t be worth using anymore. Either that, or it was wrong. I guess it was able to print that too close. Loading filament works better, if you put the tube back on. Forgot to, and no filament was coming out of nozzle. Then noticed the tube wasn’t in. Cleaned nozzle out again, heard clicking or something. So the offset might have been too close, or clogged, or both. Will check the offset again, after it heats up. And I level it again. Also, blobs might be caused from a dirty nozzle. ...