Apparently my offset changed, after a 9 hour print. If I have to get a new offset after every print, it won’t be worth using anymore. Either that, or it was wrong. I guess it was able to print that too close.
Loading filament works better, if you put the tube back on. Forgot to, and no filament was coming out of nozzle. Then noticed the tube wasn’t in.
Cleaned nozzle out again, heard clicking or something. So the offset might have been too close, or clogged, or both. Will check the offset again, after it heats up. And I level it again. Also, blobs might be caused from a dirty nozzle.
I might find out the offset is the same, except I don’t remember what it was.
If it’s the same, then I guess the nozzle needs cleaning after every print. Cleaning nozzle wasn’t the problem. The tune Z offset just sucks. Slow at changing. If this print doesn’t work either, then I’ll flash the firmware with some settings changed. Should be able to double click and get into the babystepping thing, and it should display how many babysteps.
Ended up flashing the firmware again.
Found some more settings to change, got to flash again. Actually, probably not a good idea to comment that out. As it goes home just fine with it enabled.
Trying the professional firmware now. PID for the hotend not enabled, uses something else. So have to tune that too apparently.
I’m not impressed, it moves too fast. When homing. I prefer it move nice and slow.
I guess the default heating power for MPC is right for Ender 3 V2 Neo? Internet is useless. Just says on their wiki to set it to the proper value, whatever that is.
Oh it’s the wattage of the heater cartridge, mine is from the Spider 1.0. Might be 60w. In that case, I need to run it again. But it’s working fine… Waiting 15 minutes before leveling. I think I’m still using the Spider one.
LOL, it shut off the heaters, hasn’t been 15 minutes yet. So this firmware might suck, my nozzle leaks. I thought nothing should be sticking out of nozzle when leveling.
Guess it’s 40w, cause internet says nothing. Upgrading is a pain, cause you have to install ferrules on it. But I know a brand that probably has a higher wattage heater, if I ever need one.
Maybe it will still print slow, hopefully. I think you have to compile it to make it move slower, disable the HS mode for the auto leveling probe.
Good news, you might be able to have a little leak when it tilts the mesh. Just not a giant one. That’ll save time. But moving so fast, will loosen stuff, and require maintenance. Or possibly break something.
They don’t say to make a new bed mesh with an offset set, I don’t think. So maybe Marlin works, if you do it their way. 25 probe points I think it has. Got rid of clicking noise though. Probably because I didn’t make a new mesh with an offset.
So I might be able to go back to Marlin, easy to compile Marlin. I name my printer Hung Lucy V69. You need to compile it, to do that, I think.
Looking at instructions for compiling. It might have the thing needed for pressure advance, might disable that, or just change the CRtouch to slow mode.
Just realize, it’s not using right setting for thermistor. Unless it is enabled, maybe all are. What’s the default settings? For under features, probably has LA, for pressure advance, but what else?
Firmware compiled. Must be called Hung Lucy V69.
Should try the bed tramming in it, might make the offset work better. And you have to disable HS mode, if using a mesh larger then 5x5. Disabled it, just in case. No need to flash firmware to disable it either, nice feature.
Bed Tramming in this firmware is awesome, after you fix the mesh insets. You click two buttons basically. I should edit the config, and put that in there, but I’m lazy. That is put my values in it.
Says it’s in tolerance now. And it was faster then using AutoBim. Might have found the offset, if the tramming worked. The mesh still isn’t great, possibly because of 25 points.
Nice invalid mesh, so it shutdown.
I think the offset not working farther away, might be an adhesion problem, so tuned bed up to the max before it turns into glass, 97C. There’s blobs on one side @ -2.12, so maybe -2.11 will work with the temp higher. If there’s still blobs, then it needs to be even farther.
I should clean the bed too, with alcohol. Maybe put Bed Cement on it again. No gaps so far. Not sure I tried -2.10. The tune menu isn’t very useful, for Z offset. Might as well cancel print, change offset, and reprint. Might have tried -2.08 first. But -2.11 wasn’t working before I trammed the bed again.
Nice, I might have changed the side blobs are on. No gaps though. That’s the brim so far. Don’t care if that has blobs on it.
Surprised just 0.01 decreased the blobs. Might need to go 0.01 farther still. Lots of blobs on the infill. Went down to -2.08. That might be sticking too. Looks like you shouldn’t just make it closer if there’s gaps, if you can increase bed temp, do that first. You might be making the offset farther instead though.
Went up to -2.04. Still blobs on the one side in the same spot. Does stick better @ 97C.
Nice got some gaps, now I know the range the best offset is in. Testing luck with tune menu now. And it looks pretty good, but need to reprint it after tilting mesh to see for sure. Some blobs, but not as many. Maybe -2.05 is better. Won’t know till later. First will be -2.06, to see if it’s really close enough. The tune menu might make it work for that print, but it won’t actually be the right value.