It’s -2.20 the Z offset. But the retraction test didn’t print right @ that offset. Oh well, I’ll try printing the Z calibration @ -2.20 again anyways. I changed the tilting gcode command, a 3 point instead of 4 point. Maybe that’ll fix it. Too impatient to wait for nozzle to cool down, and remake the bed mesh with Bed Visualizer. Not that it matters, since it tilts it. So I could probably change it to -2.18, and it’ll probably be fine, and make a new mesh after it’s done. Good idea. Then I only have to wait ten minutes once. ...

You can print a retraction tower with the Z offset too close. Cause I bet it’s really -2.12, I got that once from the Tune menu. So maybe it works sometimes. Surprised it mostly printed it once. Because just 0.02 closer, and it completely failed. So the gaps on some offsets, were probably under extrusion. So maybe I can use a different flow rate if needed. This is the last print, then bed time, possibly bed time while it’s printing. After I see if there’s gaps or not. ...

You probably want to check that, if you have a Z offset set on printer, that is 0 isn’t it.

If it’s stuck too much, you can’t get it off when it’s hot, or really attempt, because the steel spring build plate moves. Works fine for some build plates, not steel spring. And I have two magnet things that came with build plates I bought in the past. Didn’t need to order TH3D one, oh well, I’ll use the TH3D one anyways. Didn’t put one of the other ones on it. I assume TH3D one is probably better then those, I should toss em. ...

The value is only good for that print, if you cancel, and try reprinting @ that value, good luck. It’ll probably be too close. And you’ll spend a shit ton of time scraping filament off your G10. I even cut myself, and got blood on it, that can’t be good for adhesion. Should have put Bed Cement down, maybe it would have been easier to remove. Didn’t get it all off, but hopefully it’ll print anyways. If it prints, it might come off with the new layer. If not, I guess I can use the other side. ...

Might have to buy the ELEGOO Neptune 4 Max, and put OpenNept4une on it. Not until next month or later. Better then Unified Firmware 2. That’s pure Linux baby. Or mostly pure Linux. Removes all the buggy shit, and gives you a bad ass printer. Might have it’s own WiFi, so no need for Orange Pi to control it. Unless it has Ethernet, then I need an Ethernet switch. If it has Ethernet, I can put it behind WireGuard. Somebody stealing my WiFi won’t have access to the printer, if it’s on WireGuard only. ...

So I can only apply by dumping some out, or putting on the lid, which doesn’t work that good. See this image. I had to get it out of the lid, it was stuck in there. So TH3D has no quality control? If I try using that applicator, it will just spill out. Also, the seal was stuck in the lid too, when I first opened it. I’ll pay for for something else next time. If I need anything. ...

Flow rate calibration 1 -15 has over extrusion, and -20 might have some under extrusion on the edge. Oh well, just pick the right one on pass two. It should offset the -5. The fan should only be 1%. Unless it’s an overhang, then 10%. But it’s going to be about the same as last time I printed the two tests. All of them, except -20, looks butt ugly. And the first layer on -20 isn’t very good. I was watching it on the first layer. Lines not very close, and possibly didn’t print in one spot, some of them didn’t. ...

Can’t connect to server errors are annoying, possibly bots hammering it, or a DDoS attack. All because some company owns a similar domain. Going that way to deal with it, is pathetic though. They should send a cease and desist email instead. I have no proof of a DDoS attack, there’s plenty proof for bots. Problem with new domain, is part of the name is owned by a company. But print probably is too.

Z calibration printed with Cura I doubt the Z offset is too close. Somebody said to lower acceleration in OrcaSlicer by 60-80%, so I lowered it by 60%. Maybe it can print now. i don’t want to fine tune the Z offset for Cura, want OrcaSlicer to work. Waiting ten minutes before starting the print. Maybe I can print a temp tower in OrcaSlicer now too. First Z calibration, to see if bumps are gone, or about the same as Cura. ...