The value is only good for that print, if you cancel, and try reprinting @ that value, good luck. It’ll probably be too close. And you’ll spend a shit ton of time scraping filament off your G10. I even cut myself, and got blood on it, that can’t be good for adhesion.
Should have put Bed Cement down, maybe it would have been easier to remove.
Didn’t get it all off, but hopefully it’ll print anyways. If it prints, it might come off with the new layer. If not, I guess I can use the other side.
Don’t ask me what the point of that Tune menu is, changing the Z offset doesn’t work for the next print.
I rinsed it off with water after I got most of the filament off. Sanding might get the rest off. If it matters.
Just change the offset by 0.02 until it prints the brim right, so cancel, change, print, and so on. I’ll never use the Tune menu for the Z offset again. I learned my lesson finally.
If all fails, I’ll pay $60 for another build plate.
Problem with getting a bigger printer is, I’d need a new build plate, and they don’t have one listed for the printer I’d get. Try the cutting in parts option in OrcaSlicer instead. Then weld it together. Or find a mini itx case that is already in separate parts for smaller printers.
If the next print doesn’t work, then good luck getting it right, it’ll be 0.02 farther then too close. Won’t change it to that value again. So the brim better be right. Must have already tried -2.22.
I’ll actually just change the flow rate, and use a different offset, if -2.24 doesn’t work.
Don’t even want to change it by -0.01.
Probably under extrusion at this point, but not everywhere. No point in increasing the bed temp. I changed the flow rate to the default -0.05. Z offset might be too close now. If I see lots of bumps or blobs, I’ll cancel it.
Clearly a bad flow rate calibration.
Well, that fixed the gaps. Not sure if it’s too close yet or not.
I bought a model to print, but still calibrating printer. Canceled it, some bumps. Might be fine, but not risking it. Less filament to scrape off, if it’s too close. Maybe -2.20 is fine now.
Well, not too far, but still some bumps. Not that many yet. Hopefully it will be removable. Cause I don’t want to cancel it. Unless the middle looks horrible.
Damn it, might be some slight gaps. Not done yet. But didn’t want to print it again, wanted to print some tests for the model I bought. But depending on the spot on bed, might be trying to print over old filament. Since I didn’t get it all off.
So maybe -2.22 is better. Changed it too much possibly. Or it’s because of the flow rate. Changed that to try and decrease blobs.
Gaps and nasty blobs? Nice. So you need to decrease and increase the Z offset. I’ll just change it by another 0.04, farther away.
Came to the conclusion, that the default flow rate is the best for me. Some gaps @ -2.16, not sure changing to -2.18 will fix it, and that’s only a 0.02 difference from -2.20, which had some gaps in the middle. Was somewhat hard to remove also. So I think -2.16 is pretty close to the right offset, just need to reprint with the default flow rate to see.
Maybe don’t try to get rid of blobs by changing flow rate.
Had to change Z offset, too many bumps/blobs on brim. Would be easier, if there were gaps, then I’d know to increase it. No idea how much to change for bumps/blobs. I’m just taking a random guess.
Changed too much, gaps again. It’s probably between -2.14 and -2.16. The blobs are annoying, it can mess printer up. Or actually, I think the fan being to fast was messing it up. And then the Z offset being too close. But too close you get more bumps.
The funny thing is, according to Bed Visualizer, my bed is more level somehow. Maybe because the nozzle was still cooling down, didn’t wait for it finish cooling down. The var is 0.17 now, instead of 0.19, done with the Z offset set to 0. Almost good enough to get rid of Z offset. That is use 0. Maybe. Or at least get rid of fading.
Looks like -2.16 was fine. Gaps 0.02 farther away. Too impatient to try -2.15. So let the Z calibration print, and if there’s no gaps anywhere, print a retraction tower maybe.
Should have watched it, gaps turned up fast. Oh well, more wasted filament. Guess it is -2.20. Well, blobs or bumps on one side.
If you have a broken applicator for your Bed Cement, use a paper towel, dump as small amount as you can, and spread with paper towel.
Probably not waiting long enough, for it to cool down, it was under 45C though. Still hard to remove, so put Bed Cement on it. It might be harder @ -2.20.
Now I probably need to decrease flow rate. What did it get gaps at before? Ahh -2.20 had gaps with less flow rate. Maybe don’t decrease it as much. Or change the Z offset again. Just not to -2.26.
Is that blobs or stringing? Or both?
Bed Cement is magic, came off without waiting for bed to cool down. I think it says easy to remove after it cools down, not when still hot. So better then they say.
Going to print retraction tower. Maybe 3mm isn’t right anymore. If that doesn’t help me any, then another temp tower I guess. Temp tower will have to print while sleeping, if I print one.