For the first 3mm or whatever you set it to, it might not be even the entire print. I printed the Z calibration, and one side was 0.18mm or 0.19mm, but other side was 0.20mm or so. Might also explain why it’s printing the damn line too close on one side. I changed the Z offset to 0.04mm farther away, but it’s still printing closer then I think it should on one side. I tried -1.76, instead of -1.80, and got gaps in the infill. I also tried -1.78, which was better then -1.76, but could see the holes, that I don’t know if they are supposed to be like that. If so, only part of the print looked like that. ...

First make sure your eSteps is right, getting the right Z offset with bad eSteps will be a challenge. If you are getting transparent lines and gaps, then you most likely need to calibrate your eSteps. See here for instructions and a calculator. Basically, remove bowden tube from hotend, and extrude 100mm, and measure with calipers. Then enter the result in the calculator and current eSteps. You may need the nozzle heated to do it as well, so be careful. You could also remove the bowden tube from extruder, and measure from there, after cutting it off. Might be easier, if it’s not bent. Mine was close enough to 100mm, I didn’t see the point in trying to get an exact measurement. Too bendy. ...

One reason you could get them, is if your Z offset is too close to the bed. I had a bad eSteps value, turns out the old value was right. Another reason if the thermistor in your hotend has issues. I suppose a bad heater too, and a bad PID tuning.

Way too close, went from -1.80 to -1.58. Instead of trying to get it to zero, make 0 0.1mm farther from bed, and set OrcaSlicer Z offset to -0.1. Just because you can get 0.1mm feeler gauge under the offset, doesn’t mean it’s exactly 0.1mm. You need to set the Z to 0.1mm, and put a 0.2mm feeler gauge under it. If that fits, it’s 0.1mm farther from bed, because OrcaSlicer, will change 0.2mm to 0.1mm when printing. I just had to scrape crap off of the bed, because the retraction test was way too close. ...

Still calibrating though, printing the temp tower again, even though 235C might be the best, want to see if stringing is gone or mostly gone now. After changing the Z hop setting. Also changed the Z offset to 0.02mm farther away. Seemed a little close. Or is it printing @ 0.2mm? The first layer should be 0.3mm. Not perfect yet, if ever, but better then Cura. Already printed a flow calibration, not sure I picked the right one. ...

Extruder got blocked. See this pic, not the nozzle, but it wasn’t pushing or pulling filament all the way out. I had to remove tube, take apart extruder, and cut that off. Still messing with OrcaSlicer. The offset isn’t right now, cause I changed gcode to match Cura. Or to do the auto leveling and fading, but only fading to 3mm instead of 10mm. I thought I clogged it, cause it wasn’t printing, perhaps the nozzle was clogged too. Should have printed Z calibration at the offset I was trying when it wasn’t working, because now it’s too far away. Changed it back, waiting for printer to cool down. ...

Trying to print bridges, won’t work out too good if you don’t probably. Looks like 399 was for some other filament, no idea what filament. I guess I thought it was the same for every filament, under 300 with this filament. But might need to do it again, because I cut some of the tube off, on accident I cut some, then decided to cut more off to make it even. The problem with calibrating the eSteps, if you’re an idiot like me, you might cut the tubing. ...

I use Cura, and they have no settings for Cura. Not using experimental bridge settings. I printed a fan tower from 50% to 100% with a nozzle temperature of 250C. 100% might look the best, but could be better. So lowered the temp by 10C to 240C, and printing the bridge test. With the parts for calibration extension. Waiting for print to finish, so 100% fan and 240C nozzle temp. ...

You’ll probably give up, and then you can’t put it back together, because the mount is in the way. So you’ll have to cut it off, I used a rotary tool, basically melts it. I used the highest speed of course. I modified the design, so I don’t have to remove the rod to put it on, no idea if it works yet, might have cut too much off, or not enough. I’ll print later. ...

Be careful, don’t click disconnect, that must actually disconnect the printer. Thought I was disconnecting the app from OctoPrint, apparently not. Then I kept trying to print the recovery file, but already removed the print from bed, thought it was the same file. That explains why the nozzle was heating up at the same time. And VOXELPETG is easier to print then COEX. No stringing at basically same settings, just initial layer set to 0.3mm and the rest 0.2mm. Now if only the line printed better. Too close, pain to remove. Tried changing the printer GCODE in Cura, but didn’t fix it. ...