Way too close, went from -1.80 to -1.58. Instead of trying to get it to zero, make 0 0.1mm farther from bed, and set OrcaSlicer Z offset to -0.1. Just because you can get 0.1mm feeler gauge under the offset, doesn’t mean it’s exactly 0.1mm. You need to set the Z to 0.1mm, and put a 0.2mm feeler gauge under it. If that fits, it’s 0.1mm farther from bed, because OrcaSlicer, will change 0.2mm to 0.1mm when printing. I just had to scrape crap off of the bed, because the retraction test was way too close.

Need to print a new top for my Raspberry Pi 5 case, but have to calibrate the flow first. Offset should be fine, flow not so fine.

Instead of printing Z calibration, I’m printing a flow calibration.

I disabled Z hop, too much stringing, or maybe because Z offset was wrong, I think I can only use normal Z hopping.

I’m blaming the flow rate, cause it’s sort of sticking. And somebody said the flow rate is 100% is Cura, well mine is 104% or something, or maybe I changed it back to 100%, and it’s more forgiving. Except, if -1.90 works in Cura, does that mean if the flow is high, and it’s too close, it’ll work for a while? Until it gets clogged? Hmm, I think they said it was too high, so farther away? I’m not buying it, cause @ -1.90, with Z set to 0 in OrcaSlicer, it’s too fucking close.

Or use math, to make it zero, so -1.58 - 0.1.

Hmm, maybe the eSteps is wrong too. Or it looks horrible, until it’s done printing.

Sticking good, cause I can’t easily remove it, when the bed is heated, at least, not the actual print, didn’t try removing the skirt.

Now printing a Z calibration, to see if it’s close enough. And if just changing the flow rate is good enough.

Didn’t have to print much to see it’s not close enough.

No live adjustment in my tune menu. According to my adjustment, it’s about the same as before. When it was too close. Going to measure the part that looks better. If it’s not .3mm or so, then it ain’t right.

Perhaps set the printer to -1.90, and set OrcaSlicer to 0.02 or whatever works. Instead of negative, positive. Looks like around 0.2. Might as well change OrcaSlicer back to 0, and change offset to -1.88. Hmm, I think I’m supposed to print @ 0.2mm for the first layer with this test.

New USB cable is nice, no disconnects yet. Was a cheap pack of micro USB cables too. dmesg said it might be EMI.

And too close, just like I figured. Transparent lines. Try searching for that, you’ll get transparent filament, not what I wanted. Next up -1.84. Since the tune menu is useless. I saw some gaps, but no idea what changing Z offset in tune menu does. Or maybe I really do need to print first layer @ 0.3mm, like the manufacture says. Not close enough now. Hmm, if -1.86 isn’t close enough either, I guess it can’t print first layer @ 0.2mm. Which means I can’t print some of the calibrations. I think some change the first layer.

Still looks kind of transparent. Does that mean the bed temp is too high? Guess I’ll lower bed temp. And maybe change Z offset back to -1.88.

Trying 65C like their site says, even though lower then the product page says. On it, it says 75-85C. Not sure 75C is low enough though.

Guess COEX stuff is the only PETG I’ve used that needs a really hot bed. Hmm, should probably try 75C. Think 65C is a typo, if you look at other printers on the page. I should lookup what to print PETG on this type of build plate. Well, that didn’t fix it, 65C next. Damn bed is too sticky. I assume anyways. I get gaps but transparent, with a lower Z offset. So I suspect the bed temp is too high. Make sure you cancel print, if you aren’t happy, or you’ll waste even more filament.

If it’s too close, then there’s no good offset probably.

Hmm, the bed temp doesn’t change it. Maybe it’s the model, because the inside isn’t as thin. Probably change temp back to 85C, so future prints stick the entire time.

Hmm, according to calipers, it’s 0.14mm. So the offset should be -1.82? Good luck, I’ll get gaps. Oh wait, I think PETG shrinks. Need to reprint @ 0.3mm for the first layer, only one layer, so 0.3mm it’ll print at. Maybe printing faster will fix the first layer. Or not, I’ll find out after dinner.

Changed the first layer speed back, going to try with OrcaSlicer’s Z offset set to 0.06. Maybe that’s how to fix it. Since changing it on printer, I’ll probably get gaps.

Printing slow is better, sticks better. Looks like gaps if I set to 0.06. Just like if I did it on printer.

Why can it only print @ 0.3mm? Hmm, so it might be getting a little hot, if I print @ 0.2mm. Nozzle probably too close, or this filament is too thick. No overheating @ 0.3mm yet. By overheating, I mean over 700C.

LOL gaps @ 0.3mm and Z offset @ -1.88, so the Z offset should be at least -1.90, for 0.3mm. Or is it the flow rate?

Going to calibrate eSteps again, since I probably messed up. Nice, site I found at disinformation, the formula for YOLO is FlowRatio_old±modifier, not the old formula, or I didn’t read the entire page. Changing Z offset again too maybe. So my flow rate is screwed up. LOL. LOL 20.47 came out. It’s saying I should set it to 1402.05. Setting it to 399 next, shouldn’t have bothered with over 1k, way more then 100mm. And eSteps was right originally, about 100mm comes out @ 399. Too bent to know the exact amount. Now to get Z offset yet again. Then flow test.

Very bad eSteps = probably a bad Z offset too. Need to be even closer to get a good print. Good luck getting Z offset right, if your eSteps is wrong. Hmm, pretty close, changed to I think -1.84, 0.2mm feeler gauge lifts it up getting it under it @ -1.86, so -1.88 would be worse. Still lifts up a little. 0.1mm doesn’t very much if at all though. When setting Z to 0.1mm or 0.2mm whichever feeler gauge I’m testing. And should probably print Z offset calibration first. Damn, this is taking forever.

Bad eSteps and probably Z offset

Damn, think it’s printing @ 0.3mm for the first layer, was going to try 0.2mm. Well, I’ll measure it, if it’s 0.3mm or so, then it’s fine.

0.3mm better eSteps

Just waiting for it to cool down, so I can remove and measure it.

Nice, it might be fixed, 0.31mm, close enough. Off to the flow calibration, might work this time.