Be careful, don’t click disconnect, that must actually disconnect the printer. Thought I was disconnecting the app from OctoPrint, apparently not. Then I kept trying to print the recovery file, but already removed the print from bed, thought it was the same file. That explains why the nozzle was heating up at the same time.
And VOXELPETG is easier to print then COEX. No stringing at basically same settings, just initial layer set to 0.3mm and the rest 0.2mm. Now if only the line printed better. Too close, pain to remove. Tried changing the printer GCODE in Cura, but didn’t fix it.
The bridging wasn’t great, with the experimental bridge settings enabled. Didn’t change them for this filament, no idea what to change for any filament. Maybe it doesn’t need the bridge settings.
Cleaner prints, except bridges perhaps. Need to see if anybody has bridge settings for Cura.
Going to buy a NexiGo N930AF soon, and it apparently has a tripod mount, already printed a tripod screw thingy. Printing a stand to use the webcam with, it needs a tripod screw. Tested the tripod screw in my 3D scanner, it works, and didn’t break. Beats Logitech, those don’t usually have a tripod mount. The last webcam stand I printed, kind of sucks, it’s easy to knock over.
Should get a new grip thing with a tripod for cameras and other things, like the 3D scanner. The old one got stuck in it, and was a pain to remove. The tripod screw came off the grip but was stuck in 3D scanner. Not trying to scan anything until that comes. Not using the crappy one. Same brand, but probably cost more, and looks like it might be better.
Probably don’t need bed @ 90C, says 85C max is recommended, but it works, so might leave it as is. Perhaps the old filament needed to be dried again, but I’m lazy.
250C and 90C bed, and I think the fan is 20%.
And some stringing, at least on bigger prints. Might be able to lower nozzle temp a little. But not bad enough to care.
I didn’t dry the VOXELPETG, came dry.
You need to print cooler for bridges? Even with PETG?
I didn’t buy it to print fast, I could care less.
People say Z offset is too close to bed, to somebody on Reddit. I disagree, cause it was mostly fine before with different filament. I think I forgot to change one line, but also, don’t think 0.34 was far enough for some unknown reason. For the actual print, 0.3mm works fine for first layer. So I guess I’ll try 0.40.
The only issue I see with this filament, is it doesn’t like 0.2mm for the first layer.
The people that said that, must only print PLA. Could also need to heat up and wait before printing. Not just click print. Preheat the nozzle, but then I have to constantly remove junk from it while waiting. And maybe while it’s auto leveling.
Maybe it is a tad too close. Looking at the first skirt line. Still printing fine though. I’ll print a Z calibration tomorrow, and change Z offset in Cura if needed. I should try printing PLA and see if it’s too close too. But I’d have to dry some probably. Probably only need to change it +.4 or +.5.
Should have printed this, faster print, and attaches to rods on enclosure. Maybe I will tomorrow. Or after I get webcam, to see if the stand that takes 10+ hours to print is good enough.
Update
Fixed the purge line, changed Z offset on printer to 0.04mm farther away, and trammed the bed with the wrong Z offset, cause I forgot to set to 0. And ran Bed Visualizer, not as squished now. Haven’t tried a bigger print yet though. Probably don’t need purge line set to 0.80 for the Z. But it works, so who cares.
Should probably print Z offset calibration before printing the enclosure webcam mount. It’s printing a tripod screw right now, the 15mm one. Didn’t see a 10mm one, from the model I have.