The belts to fix printer came. Unfortunately I broke my wrist, so no printer for a while. Questionable quality USB cable power blocker came too, might be homemade.

Don’t know how to replace that part. I’m sure I can find the belt to buy, that’s the easy part. Photo Well, that sucks. Do I have to remove the bed to replace it? Now I know why it was printing in the same place. Was also a little too close, back to the original offset -2.08 is what was working before. Can’t test till I get a new belt. ...

Just clogged again while trying to print a temp tower starting at 270C, ending @ 250C. Cut off part of the filament after canceling it, but still might be clogged, ti was cooling down, so couldn’t stick my declogger in it. But might not need anyways, just load filament and it might declog while purging. Not seeing any leaking yet, while preheating. So it’s probably still clogged. If changing retraction to 3mm doesn’t fix it, then it might be the filament, and I probably need to dry it. Can’t print a retraction test very well, it clogs too. ...

Maybe if you came from PETG that requires a high printing temperature. Finally got it to print better, but kind of ugly, there’s a stringing problem. Increased the temperature to 265C. Cooling settings were probably wrong, changed back to what I had for PETG, and changed the speed back to 30. Think I print the PETG @ 240C or so. No issues with it. Guess my printer can print higher then 260C, probably the custom firmware. ...

Increased the temperature by 5C and lowered the print speed by 5. For the PCTG. I was able to mostly print a temp tower, no layer separation at 255C and 260C at least, it failed big time under 250C, don’t recommend trying to print it under 250C. If you use the highest temperature, maybe you can print faster. I’m printing way slower then what they advertise. Not sure I can print that fast with this filament. My printer is nice and slow, and steady. ...

Changed the Z offset to make it farther away, even though I had a gap. But I wonder if those gaps are under extrusion on the old offset. Not a ton of gaps, only in certain spots, maybe two total. Now the current offset, lots of gaps. Makes more sense how the gaps are now. Oh and there was crap on top of it at the old offset. Even some possibly burnt filament. So maybe some of the gap, was on top of it, in the wrong spot. ...

The PCTG filament I got, keeps clogging. I trammed the bed, and changed the bed temp back to 100C. Doesn’t look too close to me. Increasing the temperature to 258C, made it worse. Looked horrible, and clogged. So if increasing the temperature makes it worse, perhaps I need to decrease it. Printing a basic Z calibration @ 240C now. It’ll probably work fine, because the first layer is always fine. Don’t want to stay up for over 2 hours to print the chip clip. ...

No spikes yet I don’t think. But I think it’s the power blocker USB adapter, the part you plug the cable into, is loose. So the other cable may be fine, but I needed to adjust it, cause it may not have been plugged in right. But if it was the cable, the cable from TH3D works fine. Too cheap to buy a new USB power blocker, and the thing TH3D sells, is out of stock last I looked. ...

I changed the offset, I think it’s back to what it was. Or close. I also changed the flow rate, and then the Z calibration was no good. That’s better then changing Z offset, just barely decrease the flow rate. It’s 0.94 now, instead of 0.95. Might be some stringing or something though, but that could be the nozzle temperature, read you get stronger parts @ a higher temperature with PCTG. Don’t want the highest is can print at, not sure my printer can do it. ...