I changed the offset, I think it’s back to what it was. Or close. I also changed the flow rate, and then the Z calibration was no good. That’s better then changing Z offset, just barely decrease the flow rate. It’s 0.94 now, instead of 0.95. Might be some stringing or something though, but that could be the nozzle temperature, read you get stronger parts @ a higher temperature with PCTG. Don’t want the highest is can print at, not sure my printer can do it.

Not the cheapest filament, but didn’t require drying. Too lazy to dry it, and it takes 10 or more hours. Just had to change the Z offset, by kind of a lot, it was too close. Not sure it’s exactly right now either, or maybe the bed temp is too high. Didn’t see any stringing the third time on the Z calibration print. 250C and 100C bed, some kind of garolite bed. I have the Blizzard White color of their PCTG. I forget the exact garolite it is. ...

But he’s missing a finger on both hands. I accidentally broke them off. Apparently Wood PLA ain’t great for thin stuff, but PCTG might be. Might order some PCTG from here. What good is Wood PLA for then? I’d have to scale the decoration, to make the fingers fatter, and that’ll increase the print time. So I’d reckon, print it in PETG or PCTG. I have another one printed in ASA I think, and it’s doing just fine. My cow printed in the wood PLA broke too, it fell. ...

Is it any good? I might get money soon, and it will be two to three weeks before I get the VOXEL stuff. Their PLA is fine, if you dry it before using it. I read horror stories about their Flexible PLA, I have some red flexible PLA from them, but not going to use it. Might clog up my printer. Works better with direct drive. And I’m too lazy to convert mine, with the adapter I printed. Bowden tube works fine. I won’t buy TPU, might be bad for cats, can’t even use my ASA. ...

At least not for that design, a paper towel holder. I’m not wasting anymore wood filament on it, so not trying 100% infill. Somebody said 40% is stronger, but not strong enough apparently. The part the paper towels goes on, and another piece attaches to, is what breaks, it’s probably mostly the design, it’s thin. Maybe I’ll print a paper towel holder in PETG if I ever get more. Probably not that design though, I found one you screw all parts together, except the base takes a long time to print, well maybe not with only 15% infill, which is probably fine for PETG. ...

From TH3D, supposed to be high quality. I think the pack of micro USB cables I have, suck, probably the cause of temperature spikes, if it isn’t on the printer itself. I could try a different cable from the pack, but it’s currently printing. No idea if a different cable from the pack will work or not anyways. No idea if it’s the USB cable either. Would need to know if printer display shows the spike too. ...

Big mess on hotend around 4 AM I think it was. Didn’t clean it all off at 4 AM, went back to bed. Still didn’t get it all off probably. The nozzle and heat block were covered in filament. If only the camera had a better spot, I could use the openCV plugin. Hmm, don’t think I printed a Z calibration, so the offset was probably wrong. It might be right for 215C now though. Printed two or three Z calibrations. One part could look better, but the infill is fine.

But it was really weak and broke. Z offset may have been too close, or too close after I lowered the nozzle temperature by 5C, 5C will change the offset by a lot? Hard to believe, so it was probably too close. Didn’t need to change flow rate, makes getting the Z offset right more of a pain. Maybe that’s why it was stringing so much, the offset was too close. ...

Print got knocked over again, and made spaghetti. Tried calibrating the flow again, but can’t tell which is best, so I mostly guessed. Printing a Z calibration next, to make sure I didn’t decrease it too much. Might run out of this filament before successfully printing what I want to print, bummer. Not as much spaghetti, looks like it worked longer. I also woke up a little before it finished, canceled it, and went back to sleep. ...

I dried it for 8 hours @ 40C. But I can’t even print a temperature tower correctly, the layers start to not stick to the other layers, once it gets to a certain height. Now testing by printing retraction towers, it’s a fast print in OrcaSlicer. Just override the retraction length, and it’ll use it for all of them. I tried 220C and 230C so far. Now trying 215C, and 50% fan, didn’t change fan speed yet. Perhaps being in an enclosure is messing it up. ...